The weekend. Time to go sightseeing outside of Shanghai. First, on Saturday, Katherine and Stella took us to Tongli, a canal town 80km west of Shanghai. Stella collected us from the hotel with a taxi and plasitc bags of pancakes stuffed with spring onions and coriander. Odd to our British taste buds in the morning, but quite good.
To wash it down we were handed warm cartons of sweetened Soya milk. Not so good.
We met Katherine at the bus station and took the bus to Tongli. On the way we saw more high-rise buildings, Shanghai’s branch of IKEA (lots of Shanghainese are buying their own homes for the first time and need to furnish them somehow), then smaller buildings with farmers working out in the fields with the traditional pointy hats to keep the sun off.
Tongli is an old town where the old buildings have been left standing, unlike Shanghai where everything is modern. We started our tour with a boat trip to an island in the middle of a lake, where we saw a Buddhist temple with many statues of Buddha.
Lots of people were buying incense sticks, great big bundles of them, to wave about and leave burning in the temple so the air was sickly sweet with the smell of their smoke. In another place many candles had been lit and left to burn, much like in a church at home, except these are enormous red dripping candles. Everything is so colourful and bright here. It was very similar to the temples in Thailand.
Upstairs we found a large bell. You can pay to ring the bell if you wish for “boundless benefice”. Miss Hamer did. Outside, by a small lake in the island, was a tree with golden leaves glittering in the sunshine, covered with the red ribbons left by people making
Miss Hamer ringing the bell
wishes. Lotus flower grow in the lake,
but they are not in flower at this time of year, and there were lots of Koi carp waiting greedily to be fed by passing tourists. The bridge in the photo is zig-zagged to prevent the bad spirits, which can only travel in straight lines, from crossing it. All the tourists on our bus were Chinese and throughout the day we saw very few other westerners.
We missed the ferry back, so took a speed-boat instead. It felt very James Bond.
Back on dry land we found a little tourist bus to take us into town. Here we visited Tuisi gardens, a 19th Century garden built by an official as a country residence. We dressed up in traditional Chinese costume and had our picture taken around the lake. We seemed to be the only ones doing so, so I think lots of the tourists there that day will have taken home photos of us too!
(we didn’t get to choose the colours.)
The stories we heard were intriguing. The daughter of the family had her own rooms upstairs, with a large magnolia tree outside. This gave her something pretty to look at, because, although her room was large and very cool and comfortable, she was not allowed out of it. I imagine it was small compensation to have a “beauty balcony” where she was allowed to watch visitors enjoying the beautiful gardens. And it wouldn’t have been easy to escape wearing all that clobber – the stairs were hard enough to negotiate in cotton trousers and flip-flops.
While we had lunch an opera performance began at the open-air theatre outside. We finished our pork and vegetables and hurried outside to join the crowd of old people and tourists enjoying the show. The music was incomprehensible to us and most modern Chinese, but the costumes and make-up were impressive.
We spent the afternoon wandering about the lanes along the canals, crossing rivers for luck and fortune and admiring the craftsmanship in the various shops. We popped in and out of another museum and watched locals playing mah-jong while enjoying green tea under the shade of the trees. It was wonderful to visit such a peaceful unhurried town and to escape the hustle and bustle of city life for a day. We returned to the bus station, full of cake and ice-cream on the back of a three –wheeled bike with seats for passengers.
The following morning we had an early start. Again a taxi and breakfast – this time ham and tuna sandwiches made with two types of bread and rather unappetising looking pink ham. It didn’t taste nearly as bad as it looked! The taxi dropped us off at the new train station. It looked more like Stansted airport, built of metal and glass in a dome. We had to hurry down the escalators to catch the high-speed train which would take us to Hangzhou in 1 hour 40 minutes. Inside even seemed like an aeroplane, but with leg room and a decent sized aisle.
Hangzhou looked similar to Shanghai when we first arrived. A short taxi ride, though, and we were at the shore of “the most beautiful lake in China”, West Lake. There are many lakes in China with called West Lake, but they all take their name from this original one. The Song dynasty established Hanzhou as their capital in the 1100’s and the Italian explorer Marco Polo passed through in the 13th century, describing it as one of the finest and most splendid cities in the world. I don’t think he would say the same now, but the lake is lovely. Nothing like the wild, natural beauty of places in Britain, such as Lake Windermere, it is a hugely popular tourist attraction and has been developed to accommodate the droves of people who descend on it throughout the year with walkways large enough for pedestrians, bicycles, taxis and even tour buses to drive along. We started by escaping the crowds on a small boat for the 4 of us (Katherine and Stella had given up another day of their weekend to be our guides) and floated out into the lake. Our boatman was friendly; he told us lots of stories about the lake, which Katherine and Stella translated for us. He took us for a tour around an island and pointed out all the bridges and buildings of interest, avoiding all the ferries and other water-craft bobbing around us. All the bartering and arranging to get the boat proved worthwhile.
Bai causeway connects Gushan Island to the West Lake’s northern shores and on it can be found the Zhejiang Provincial Museum, on the site of Emperor Qianlong’s 18th century holiday palace. We walked the causeway and stopped at a famous restaurant where lots of diners were ordering claypot chicken and every table had a dish of fish from the lake. It’s hard to eat the enormous amount of food we are given when we are melting in the heat, we tried everything to be polite, but still our hosts worried that we didn’t like the food! There’s not much like the food we think of as Chinese at home, but most of it is very tasty and we are enjoying trying new things. Some of it is a bit too different from what we are used to, and the whole experience is quite a change: the host chooses everyone’s food and orders it, all the dishes come when they are cooked and everyone shares everything. Of course this is all done with chopsticks! We’ve got to grips with the wooden ones, but plastic is a little slippery, especially when you’re trying to catch tofu, or a pea!
We spent the afternoon visiting the silk market. There are silk farms in the province and it is said that this is the best town in the area to buy silk. We saw an enormous range of items and qualities. Eventually, we bought a dressing-gown each and I got a nightie too. Eventually, as in we went to every shop on the street, bartered, got thrown out of the shop, went and looked at a few more shops, then returned and paid the price they asked for. Debenhams seems much easier in comparison.
As well as a whole street of shops dedicated to silk, we also went down the tea street, where every shop sold green tea, another speciality of the town. After a while we went into one shop, where we found the tea we wanted, talked about all the other tea in the shop, and then completed our purchase. Nothing is straightforward, people love to talk and it’s a good idea to spend as much time as possible in the air-conditioned shops when you feel like you’re melting on the streets.
Katherine bought us some strong smelling flowers to pin to our clothes, to make us smell sweet and fresh.
After another interesting meal we returned to Shanghai by train. Only this time we had to get the ordinary train. The high speed one gets booked up early and it was full. From the moment we arrived at the station we could see that this was clearly going to be a very different experience. There were hundreds of people sitting on the ground outside the station with their bags and suitcases. Inside we had to stay together to find waiting room 4 which was full of hundreds of passengers waiting for their trains. After a not very pleasant trip to the smelly loos, our train was announced and we joined the giant queue to “check in”. Queueing is a fairly novel experience for most Chinese, and is not taken nearly as seriously as in the UK so you have to be on your toes to keep your place. Bags were thrown through the x-ray machine and hastily grabbed as they appeared at the other end. Again, this showed how little crime there is here and how trusting people can be. I would have been terrified to let go of all my money and passport in such a crowd in any other city in the world. Can’t say I felt relaxed about it, but no one seemed to be losing their stuff.
We were swept along in the surge down to the platform where a huge train was waiting to take us back to Shanghai. After walking and walking we found carriage 14, then realised we were meant to be on 16. With only 10 minutes till the train left, there was no time to get off and on again and the door between the carriages was locked. All the seats were taken and there was a big fuss about what we were to do! In the end we were saved by a stewardess who let us through to what must have been first class. It was certainly not as classy as the high-speed train. My chair kept collapsing, the bright lights were left on the whole journey, the other passengers talked and joked loudly, the younger couples were listening to tunes on their mobiles at full volume (actually it was nice to hear some familiar music) and the train stopped at lots of little stations. The journey home took twice as long as the journey there, which goes to show how good the new train is. At least we had seats and weren’t still locked in carriage 14 with the smokers and crowds – and the train left on time!